Friday, January 2, 2009

Happy New Year!

Madrid, as many Spaniards know, is known for its partying and incredible night life. Nothing could prove more true than La Noche Vieja, December 31st. For people unfamiliar with Spanish New Years traditions, the country typically celebrates La Noche Buena, 'The Good Night," on the 24th of December before preparing for La Noche Vieja, "The Old Night," on the 31st of December. The celebrations typically vary from city to city; most of the parties tend to focus around people congregating in central public spaces to celebrate the arrival of the new year.

In the case of Madrid, the city hosts its party in Sol, the center of the city. The scene was impressive: the plaza and its adjoining streets were full of groups dressed in flashy wigs and other New Years trinkets. The age range ran the gamut of generations: older folks were drinking copious amounts of alcohol as their younger counterparts were purchasing Champagne and beer from Asian street vendors on the streets that run towards Sol. (Chinese immigrants tend are the majority of street vendors who sell products such as sandwiches, beer, and soda to late night partiers in Madrid.)

As midnight drew closer, the partiers began to drink even more alcohol and turned their attention towards the clock tower that sits atop of the Casa de Correos building in the square. More importantly, the crowd began to open small bags with 12 grapes for the midnight countdown. The tradition of eating twelve grapes is unique to Spain. The practice emerged in Elche in 1909 when a group of grape farmers in the Baix Vinalopo region decided to eat 12 grapes at midnight to exhaust a surplus of grapes from that seasons harvest. One eats a grape for every ring that counts down to the new year (e.g 12... 11... etc); those who do not eat their grapes by midnight will face a year of bad luck. (The other Spnaish new years eve tradition revolves around wearing red undergarments during la Noche Vieja, but the chilly weather and winter garments obviously made it difficult for me to confirm this custom.)

With the grapes ready, my group of friends and I looked at the clock as the countdown finally reached midnight and saw a "Feliz 2009" light up on the building's facade. The crowd finished eating their grapes and toasted the New Year as fireworks lit the sky with a vibrant spectacle of color and light for five minutes. Although it does not fully capture the experience, I have a few set of photos from the scene at midnight:

Almost ready for the fireworks...

... The first wave...

... a growing crescendo of light and color...

... that sets the stage for an amazing climax

After the event, my friends and I left Sol and disappeared into the city to our festivities. It would be an understatement to say that the event left us awed and very much ready to enjoy the new year. Feliz Año Nuevo everyone!

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